As consumers, often unknowingly, we are at the heart of the issue. Without demand for products containing shark, there would be nothing fueling the hunt. The good news is, whether we live in China or the middle of Iowa, we all hold in our hands the power to protect sharks, the oceans and our intertwined futures. The informed and easy consumer choices we make on a daily basis can turn the tide and save a species that desperately needs our help. Unfortunately, the burden is on the consumer to educate themselves about products that contain shark and perform the necessary detective work to ensure they are not contributing the sharks’ demise.
Shark liver oil (Squalene or Squalane) in Cosmetics:
Squalene/squalane is an oil that is derived from the shark’s liver and is used in cosmetic products ranging from anti-aging creams, lotions, deodorants, hair conditioners, eye shadows, lipstick, lip balms, sunscreen, and cleansers. It is also sold in the form of pills and supplements as it is believed to have medicinal value, and is prevalent in many medicinal creams. Finally, squalene has some limited industrial uses as well, serving as a basis for lubricants and cleaning agents.
Cosmetic uses for squalene
Shark-based squalene is commonly used by many consumer product and cosmetic brands you are no doubt familiar with. Over 3 million sharks are hunted and killed for their livers each year to be used in these cosmetics. Because squalene (or a derivative called squalane) is highly prized for its moisturizing, wrinkle prevention, smoothing and restorative properties, it is in high demand by our youth-loving culture. It’s also used as an emollient in sunscreen, foundation, face moisturizers, lipstick, eye makeup, tanning oil, and many other products, which most consumers remain completely unaware of.
More than 50 shark species are fished for their liver oil, several of which are listed on the IUCN Red list – the most sought after are deep sea sharks, since their liver can make up 20% of their body weight. These deep sea sharks are at such a great risk of overfishing that scientists have concluded they should not be caught at all. However, according to Bloom, the demand for shark liver oil in 2012 was estimated at 2,200 tons – the vast majority from the cosmetics industry.
A viable alternative
Shark-based squalene has a readily available substitute on the market that comes from a purely vegetable origin – olives – which is actually known to be of better quality than shark-based squalene and less expensive as well. Squalene is also found in amaranth seeds, rice bran, wheat germ, fungi, and date palm. Manufacturers claim that plant alternatives possess significantly lower quantities of the oil, consequently it takes more effort to harvest plant-based squalene and, as a result, costs around 30% more. These two factors – price and potency – make shark squalene the most desired source in the market, and a driving deep water sharks into extinction.
In the last decade, as more and more consumers are becoming aware of the issues facing sharks, the market is starting to see a shift towards more ethical, plant-based squalane. And some companies have shifted towards plant-based sources – including Ponds, Dove and L’Oreal. And by 2010, much of the EU shifted to using only plant-based squalene/squalane. However, on a global scale, shark remains the primary source of squalene.
Medicinal uses for squalene
Not only will you find squalene in the cosmetic and lotion aisles at the pharmacy, you will also find it in the supplement and remedy aisles as well. Shark liver oil is used to promote the healing of wounds, irritations of the respiratory and gastrointestinal tract, and general debility – and is a common ingredient in medicinal creams like Preparation H. Given its supposed impact on white blood cells, it is also becoming increasingly popular as a booster for the immune system and even as a way of preventing cancer, sold in a pill form.
And, you will also find it in your doctor’s office, as it is added to improve the efficacy of several vaccines, including pandemic flus, malaria and yes, even CoVID.
The difference an “a” makes
Don’t be fooled. Squalene and squalane can both come from sharks. Squalane is a saturated form of squalene in which the double bonds have been eliminated by hydrogenation. Because squalane is less susceptible to oxidation, is odorless and has a longer efficacy, it is more commonly used in personal care products than squalene.
Consumers bear the burden
Unfortunately, the industry is highly unregulated, and brands have no legal obligation to let consumers know the source of their ingredient squalene. Additionally, many companies falsely promote ‘squalane’ as the plant alternative to shark squalene, when it’s in fact just the derivative of shark liver oil.
Until laws are passed to ensure squalane-based products are accurately labeled, it’s up to us as consumers to vote with our dollars, thoroughly researching the products we buy. If squalene or squalane is listed – look for the words ‘100% plant-derived,’ or ‘vegetable based’ or “vegetable origins”. If the label doesn’t indicate the source, reach out to the company and ask. Or, better yet, choose a product you know does not contain shark squalene. More and more ethical, plant-based cosmetic companies are emerging. Why would you choose to jeopardize our oceans when you have another option?
With some attention and pressure, we know we can persuade companies to make their products without shark squalene. That’s why, in conjunction with United Conservationists, we’ve started a movement called SharkFree.
Through science, grassroots tools, and education, we want to make ALL the products we buy #SHARKFREE.
#SHARKFREE is a campaign to keep sharks out of our products, so we can reduce pressure on their populations and save them from extinction. Because it is entirely unnecessary to kill sharks for cosmetics… or pet food… or vaccines.
References
Clarke, Shelley C.; McAllister, Murdoch K.; Milner-Gulland, E. J.; Kirkwood, G. P.; Michielsens, Catherine G. J.; Agnew, David J.; Pikitch, Ellen K.; Nakano, Hideki et al. “Global estimates of shark catches using trade records from commercial markets”. Ecology Letters 9 (10): 1115–1126 (2006).
“Sharks: Key to Healthy Oceans.” The PEW Environmental Group and the Bahamas National Trust. PEWenvironment.org. https://www.pewtrusts.org/en/research-and-analysis/fact-sheets/2011/02/18/sharks-key-to-healthy-oceans
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. “Shark utilization, marketing, and trade.” (1999). https://www.fao.org/documents/card/en/c/1448b1bf-3354-540f-926b-
Deni Kirkova. “Lily Cole to reveal the ugly truth behind luxury beauty: Model exposes industry’s cruel use of SHARK liver.” Mail Online. Associated Newspapers Lid. May 27, 2013. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2331563/Lily-Cole-reveal-ugly-truth-luxury-beauty-Model-exposes-cosmetics-industrys-cruel-use-SHARK-liver.html
The Daily Catch. “Model exposes cosmetics industry’s cruel use of Shark liver.” The Terramar Project. May 28, 2013. http://theterramarproject.org/thedailycatch/model-exposes-cosmetics-industrys-cruel-use-of-shark-liver/
Lucy Cockcroft. “Cosmetics giants agree to stop using shark oil.” The Telegraph. January 30, 2008. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/3323530/Cosmetics-giants-agree-to-stop-using-shark-oil.html
National Geographic: “There might be a Shark in your sunscreen” https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/2018/07/sharks-news-cosmetics-squalene-health/
Bloom: “The hideous price of beauty” http://www.bloomassociation.org/en/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/ENG_Squalene_4-pager.pdf
Newsweek: “Could there be shark in your lipstick?” https://www.newsweek.com/there-could-be-sharks-your-lipstick-cosmetic-companies-use-shark-liver-oil-1040591
Science Daily: “New method could stop shark oil being used in cosmetics and vaccines” https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2010/05/100518230649.htm
Axiology: “The Truth Behind One of the Cosmetic Industry’s Deadliest Ingredients: Squalene” https://axiologybeauty.com/blogs/our-blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-one-of-the-cosmetic-industrys-deadliest-ingredients-squalene
American Cancer Society. “Shark Liver Oil.” Novemer 1, 2008. http://www.cancer.org/treatment/treatmentsandsideeffects/complementaryandalternativemedicine/pharmacologicalandbiologicaltreatment/shark-liver-oil
Uses for Shark (Shark Angels): http://sharkangels.org/shark-products
Oceana: oceana.org